LIP BLUSH COLOR CORRECTION GUIDE

1. Warm Dark Lips

Grayish, or dull appearance

Goal: Neutralize darkness and restore brightness.

• Start with White Corrector to reduce heavy melanin.
• Add Bright Yellow to lift and brighten the tone.
• After neutralization, apply your target lip color in thin layers.

Tip: Always work slowly and reassess color after each pass.

2. Cool-Toned Dark Lips

Blue or purple undertones

Goal: Warm the undertone before applying target color.

• Begin with a Peach or Coral base to cancel blue/purple tones.
• Add Translucent White to increase brightness.
• Finish with a small amount of Warm Yellow for balance.

Tip: Avoid cool reds in the first session on cool-toned lips

3. Pale Lips – Blank Canvas

Goal: Enhance natural lip tone with minimal correction.

• Match pigment to skin tone, age, and style preference.
• Soft, natural shades heal best on pale lips.

Recommended student shade: Soft Grapefruit or Nude Pink.

4. Light to Medium Dark Lips

Slight shadowing or uneven pigmentation

Goal: Gently neutralize before adding saturation.

• Use Warm Orange correctors as your first layer.
• Avoid deep reds in the first session.
• Build color gradually at the touch-up appointment.

Tip: Over-saturation in session one increases risk of dark healing.

5. Patchy Darkness or Gray Lips

Goal: Even out uneven melanin distribution.

• Mix Nude + White, or apply White Corrector only in dark areas.
• Use point-tapping or soft sweeping motions.
• Neutralize fully before applying target shade.

Tip: Spot correction is more effective than full coverage.

6. Correcting Failed Lip Color

Deep magenta, violet, or uneven healed results

Goal: Cancel incorrect undertone before recoloring.

• Use a Yellow-based corrector to neutralize magenta or purple.
• Once neutral, re-apply the target lip color in thin layers.

Tip: Never apply target color over uncorrected undertones.

Student Guidelines – Always Remember:

• Analyze undertone, melanin level, age, and lip condition first.
• Neutralization is more important than saturation.
• Less pigment = better long-term healing.
• Color correction may require multiple sessions.

Arizona Permanent Makeup Academy

Advanced Training in Lip Blush & Color Correction

azpmu.org